(Above) Aerial view of Lake Geneva, Wisconsin (Adobe Stock). Click on images to view larger versions.

By Pamela Dittmer McKuen

Jan. 30, 2026 – After the devastating Great Chicago Fire of 1871, wealthy city dwellers desired a retreat from all that soot and unpleasantness. They found it in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin, where they built grand mansions along the banks of spring-fed Geneva Lake.

Inspiring the nickname, “Newport of the West,” 100 or so mansions still exist, although some have been torn down and replaced by even bigger mansions.

Mansion-peeping is a huge draw to this vibrant resort town 80 miles northwest of Chicago, but there’s much more. Lake Geneva is a destination with a picturesque Main Street, amenity-rich resorts, upscale dining, rejuvenating spas, and legendary golf courses. At its center is the eight-square-mile lake, abundant with beaches and boats.

More about mansions

The mansions are lovely to behold, but the only way to actually see them is from the water. There’s no public road that circles the lake. Book a narrated boat tour with Lake Geneva Cruise Line, and you’ll hear entertaining stories about many of the estate homes and their famous (or infamous, as the case may be) residents as you pass by.

Cruises leave from The Riviera (left), a restored 1932 Italianate building with a clay-tile roof and photogenic fountain, listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Walk through the lower level, past the sweets and souvenir shops, to the marina. The second level is a ballroom and event space, formerly a dance hall and night club during the Big Band Era. Next door is sugary Riviera Beach.

Another way to view the mansions is the 22-mile Geneva Lake Shore Path. Local law requires homeowners to allow pedestrian passage, but it doesn’t specify the type of path. Some portions are paved, others are dirt, and still others are mere grass. By all means, take a hike. Estimated time to walk the entire shore path: Between eight and ten hours.

Lake Geneva Cruise Line also offers a one-way tour, which allows you to walk a portion of the path and return by boat.

The only mansion open for regular indoor touring is Black Point Estate and Gardens (right), which is not visible from the water. To reach the 1888 Queen Anne Victorian home, you’ll take a boat from the Riviera marina, then climb 120 stairs up a steep cliff to the entrance. Again, there’s no road access.

Black Point Estate was the summer home of Chicago beer baron, Conrad Seipp, and his family. The 20-room “cottage,” sitting on 27 acres with nearly a half-mile of shoreline, was designed with 13 bedrooms and one bathroom and no electricity or running water. Those were added in later years. Seven generations of Seipp enjoyed the home, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, until it was donated in 2005 with its furnishings to the state of Wisconsin.

The carriers are called ‘jumpers’ because they jump off the boat as it approaches the pier.... All the while, the boat is still moving!

Another unique cruise is the U.S. Mail Boat Tour. About 70 waterfront homeowners have their summertime mail delivered via boat, a route that was established in 1916. The carriers (including the one at left) are called “jumpers” because they jump off the boat as it approaches the pier, tuck their deliveries into a mailbox – or perhaps toss a newspaper to an eagerly awaiting canine resident – and jump back on. All the while, the boat is still moving!

Magic of sky and stage

Sky watchers will be thrilled to know Yerkes Observatory, a lakeside icon, is now open for public tours and interactive programming. Opened in 1897, the impressive Beaux Arts and Romanesque building (and Olmsted Brothers-designed gardens) housed the University of Chicago astrophysics graduate school for more than a century. On tour there is the world’s largest refractor (lens-based) telescope, through which many important celestial discoveries were made. Edwin Hubble, for whom the Hubble Space Telescope was named, and Carl Sagan, a champion of space exploration, were alumni.

The University closed the observatory (right) in 2018 and transferred ownership to a private foundation. After a major restoration, Yerkes reopened in 2022.

Visit Lake Geneva

Wonders of another kind are on stage at the Tristan Crist Magic Theatre. The dazzling Las Vegas-style show incorporates fire, levitation, mentalism, and large-scale props like a helicopter and motorcycle. Best of all, you’re sitting close to all the mind-boggling illusions in an intimate 175-seat venue. Stick around after the show for a meet-and-greet with the Wisconsin-bred magic-maker.

Pink lemonade was invented at Lake Lawn Lodge.

Resorts with personality

Lake Geneva’s many hotels and resorts beckon with a wide array of accommodations, each with fascinating stories to tell. The following have undergone recent renovations and upgrades:

The Abbey Resort, opened in 1963, is the only full-service resort on Geneva Lake.

Its iconic A-frame facade is reminiscent of European guesthouses, known for their generous hospitality during the Middle Ages.

(Left) Great room at The Abbey Resort. Photo by Goran Kosanovic.

Many of the guest rooms look out onto Abbey Harbor, a protected marina for 400+ vessels and water excursions. The Lake Geneva Shore Path meanders alongside the resort, so take it as far as you wish.

The Abbey’s Avani Spa, opened in 2008, offers a robust menu of body and facial treatments, along with access to a private indoor pool with outdoor patio, salt therapy, sauna and steam rooms, tranquility rooms, salon services, and a fitness center.

Grand Geneva Resort opened in 1968 as the first Playboy Club resort in bunny history. The Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired resort, transformed into the Grand Geneva in 1993, features indoor and outdoor swimming pools, spa, ski hill, and two golf courses. Scheduled to open in spring is the new ten-hole short course named Wee Nip, geared to families and casual players.

Grand Geneva Resort’s sister property, Timber Ridge Lodge, has an indoor/outdoor waterpark with slides and lazy river as well as family-sized suites.

Maxwell Mansion, built in 1856 as a private summer home, is a 28-room boutique hotel two blocks from the lake and the oldest mansion in Lake Geneva. Within the Mansion are six traditional guestrooms with en suite baths furnished with antiques and fine linens. The remaining rooms are in the adjacent Stables and Carriage House, all handsomely appointed with urban barn chic.

In the basement of the mansion is the Speakeasy Bar (right), an underground hideaway with a menu of craft cocktails and light bites. You need a password to enter, which you can find on Facebook. Be forewarned, the premises are said to be haunted by friendly ghosts.

Photo by Peter Harasty

Historic Lake Lawn Lodge on nearby Delavan Lake boasts a bold history. From the mid-to-late 1800s, the property was the winter home of two dozen traveling circuses. The first guesthouse opened in 1878 and expanded from there through various ups and downs. A ballroom added during the Depression era drew performers like Lawrence Welk and Bill Haley and the Comets. Fun fact: Pink lemonade was invented at Lake Lawn Lodge.

Today, Lake Lawn Lodge is a sprawling complex of relaxation and recreation with two miles of shoreline and a mix of accommodation styles. The resort’s two-level cruise boat takes you past enviable lakefront homes and secluded coves. There also are a spa and 18-hole golf course.

Delightful dining

Lake Geneva’s dining scene focuses on wholesome, hearty cuisine, with ingredients often sourced from local farms and producers. A few suggestions for freestanding eateries and resort standouts:

Pier 290, the only restaurant directly on the Geneva Lake waterfront, serves up classic American fare.

Oakfire is a Neapolitan pizzeria with views of the lake and Riviera.

Maritime-themed Popeye’s, overlooking the waterfront, is a local favorite noted for rotisserie chicken, burgers, and fish frys.

At The Abbey Resort, 240° West is an elevated steakhouse with Mediterranean flair.

The Grand Café at Grand Geneva Resort offers contemporary American fare reflecting Midwestern flavors.

Lake Lawn Resort’s signature restaurant, 1878 on the Lake, updates traditional heartland cuisine.

Another delectable experience is the culinary classes at the Lake Geneva School of Cooking.

High-spirited Chef John Bogan (left) entertains as he gives hands-on instructions to prepare a multi-course, seasonally themed menu. Afterward, you’ll sit down in a traditional dining room setting to eat your creations, accompanied by curated wines.

Final Words: Lake Geneva is a year-round destination, not just a summer one. Many of the resorts and towns are celebrating the winter season with an array of special themed events. Like these:

Lake Geneva Winterfest runs from January 28 through February 1 with a spectacle of artistry. The schedule includes the Snow Sculpting Invitational Competition with teams from around the globe transforming ten blocks of snow on the spot, Downtown Ice Sculpture Walk, and Bonfires on the Beach with fire dance performers.

The Abbey Resort is hosting an evening of culinary magic on January 31 as Executive Chef Noah Gümüstekin and celebrity Chef Fabio Viviani present a Mediterranean-influenced four-course menu accompanied by wine pairings. The event is a benefit for the James Beard Foundation.

Photos by Pamela Dittmer McKuen except as noted.