(Above) Once the private retreat of one of the richest pirates ever, Black’s Island, seen here from Saint Joseph Bay. Photo by Kristianne Koch Riddle provided by Gulf County Tourist Development Council. (Click on images to view larger versions.)

By Pamela Dittmer McKuen

Jul. 30, 2025 – It’s hard to imagine a Florida vacation without high-rise condos and theme parks, but then there’s Gulf County: The heart of the panhandle known as the “Forgotten Coast.”

Engulfed in spectacular scenery and an Old Florida vibe is a cluster of small communities that harken back to simpler times.

Port St. Joe, the largest (population 4,000) and the social hub of it all, nestles up to St. Joseph Bay, which is lined with miles of powdery white sand beaches. Enclosing the bay is an L-shaped peninsula jutting into the Gulf of Mexico, providing sanctuary for marine life and calm, pristine waters for aquatic recreation. And, because of its unique west-facing location, Gulf County boasts dazzling sunset views.

The region was devastated by Hurricane Michael, a Category 5 tempest in 2018, but ambitious restoration and rebuilding have reclaimed its coastal glory. Gulf County, however, will never replicate the buzzy, congested panhandle hotspots along the Highway 30A corridor. Any development is highly regulated, and new construction is restricted to three stories.

Play on land and water

Anchoring scenic George Core Park near downtown Port St. Joe is the Cape San Blas Lighthouse, built in 1885. The architecture is a skeletal design, meaning the 98-foot-tall structure is supported by eight cast iron legs bolted into concrete. Climb the 131 narrow winding steps to the top for 360-degree views of the bay and the city.

The lighthouse (left) is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Explore marine life in the shallow waters of St. Joseph Bay by booking a guided kayak tour with Fighting Conch Rentals, which also provides the kayaks and gear. The bay is rich in turtles, stingrays, crabs, herons, eagles, and so much more. Mullets jumping out of the water are especially entertaining.

The Dead Lakes is a natural wonder, a haunting ecosystem of live, dead, and decaying cypress trees rising from dark tannic waters. It’s a swamp forest in Wewahitchka that appears forsaken but is very much alive with aquatic and avian creatures. Off the Map Expeditions will guide you on a pontoon or kayak tour and share the lake’s many secrets.

The Dead Lakes shoreline is abuzz with rare white tupelo gum trees, the source of world-renowned Tupelo Honey. While you’re in the area, stop by the Smiley Honey apiary for free tastings.

Roughly half of the landmass of the 20-mile-long peninsula is T.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph Peninsula State Park, known for its expansive quartz beaches, towering sand dunes, and abundant wildlife. Just north of the entrance, the peninsula is so narrow, you can stand on an elevated boardwalk in the middle and see the gulf on one side and the bay on the other.

Hurricane Michael sliced through the park and cut it in half with a major washout, but restoration and re-landscaping remediated the damage. Stay overnight in one of eight renovated air-conditioned cabins, the 46-site campground, or 14 primitive campsites.

Where to stay

Gulf County is dotted with locally owned hotels, inns, and cottages, some that have been around for decades. A newcomer to the group is Hotel Saint Joseph, a luxe boutique hotel transformed from a historic bank building on the Port St. Joe waterfront.

The 27-room hotel (right), which has a swimming pool and tropical courtyard, is just steps from boutique shopping on Reid Avenue and multiple dining options.

No extra charge for the sunsets on view from the rooftop terrace.

What you won’t find within the county’s lodging stock are large nationally-branded hotels, so many visitors do what we did: Reserve a beach home. The ongoing building boom in the wake of Hurricane Michael has resulted in a plethora of upscale, amenity-rich vacation properties on or near the water.

Our rental, which we booked through Cape & Coast Premier Properties, was a gorgeous new 5-bedroom, 4.5-bath home in Cape San Blas. Someone clever named it “Icing on the Cape.” The four-level layout included expansive living and lounging spaces, a chef’s kitchen, elevator, and private heated swimming pool. A shared boardwalk led to serene North Cape Beach, where we saw more shorebirds than people.

For a truly one-of-a-kind experience, book a stay at Black’s Island in St. Joseph Bay. It was once the private retreat of one of the richest pirates ever, Samuel “Black Sam” Bellamy, an Englishman who ruled the seas until he went down with his ship in 1717.

Today the seven-acre island is a secluded resort exuding understated luxury and a Swiss Family Robinson ambiance. Twenty-six elevated waterfront bungalows are linked by a cypress boardwalk amid a forest of towering palm trees. The bungalows are artfully designed with two or three bedrooms, fully-equipped modern kitchens, and expansive bay views. Among the island’s permanent denizens are peacocks, turkeys, and guinea fowl, all strutting their stuff.

(Left) A strutting peacock on Black’s Island.

While you’re there, the four-level clubhouse is open with indoor and outdoor spaces for socializing, lounging, and dining. There’s also an outdoor swimming pool and 20-slip dock. Onsite staff will gear you up for all manners of water activity.

Black’s Island may or may not be haunted. Previous guests have reported seeing a ghostly pirate on the beach. Perhaps Black Sam is looking for his lost ship, the Whydah Gally, to come in. He certainly picked a grand site to dock.

Dining in and out

Franchised restaurants are a rarity in Gulf County, where most dining establishments are locally owned and operated. Many boast long-standing family ties to the region while others were started by transplants from elsewhere who decided to escape to the sunshine and open an eatery. Dress codes are casual, but the food is authentic, and the hospitality is genuine. If you absolutely need McDonald’s, well, there’s that too.

Sweet Bunz hits the spot for sugar and spice and all things nice. Grab freshly made donuts or pastries – sweet or savory – for breakfast or stop by for specialty coffees and artisanal ice cream all day.

Weber’s Little Donut Shop is a walk-up beach shack with a big reputation. Get there early – the line starts forming before it opens and before your favorites are sold out.

The White Marlin & Oysterette is a fine dining restaurant with sophisticated, beachy decor overlooking the bay. Choose to be seated in the tableclothed main dining room or outdoors on the tree-shaded deck. The menu features locally sourced seafood and steaks, sushi and oysters, handcrafted cocktails, and an international wine list.

(Right) A seafood dish at The White Marlin & Oysterette.

Quatros Locos Tacos & Cantina serves up traditional dishes inspired by Mexican street food in a fun, vibrant atmosphere. It’s what you would expect from a restaurant name that translates to “four crazies.” Bring your friends to share an 88-ounce margarita tower – it looks like a tall blender with a spigot.

Shipwreck Raw Bar, a super-casual restaurant decked out in a rustic nautical theme, reels in a diverse seafood menu seasoned to your liking.

If you’re renting a vacation home, like we did, shop for provisions at Duren’s Piggly Wiggly in Port St. Joe. The grocer carries an amazing selection of fresh seafood, Angus beef, organic produce, specialty foods, salad bar, deli, and bakery. Locals call it “The Pig.”

Not up for cooking during your beach vacation? No problem. A host of independent caterers will happily set up an informal breakfast spread or prepare a gourmet dinner in your kitchen – or anything in between. Catering Connections, for instance, delivers menu items from Port St. Joe’s favorite restaurants for any group size.

One night the fine folks from Skully’s Low Country Boil brought over a cooler filled with its signature dish: peel-and-eat shrimp, smoked sausage, corn on the cob, and new potatoes boiled in a special blend of Cajun seasonings. I’ve heard the gumbo is delectable.

(Left) Ready to peel and eat, the signature shrimp dish at Skully’s Low Country Boil.

Another night, private chef Ian Williams of Your Table! Your Chef! took over our kitchen and presented us with an elegant four-course dinner. The black grouper with lemon basil cream sauce served over vegetable parmesan risotto was the star of the event.

A local oddity is that Gulf County is divided into two time zones, Central and Eastern. Your phone may or may not accurately make the switch as you move about. Keep an eye on local clocks, or maybe just forget about them. That’s just another beauty of the Forgotten Coast. (Right) The author at work on North Cape Beach. Photo by Cheré Coen.

Photos provided by Pamela Dittmer McKuen except where noted otherwise.